File #124: "Chamberlain, Levi_18460209-18460223_Journal_i25a3_Typescript.pdf"

Chamberlain, Levi_18460209-18460223_Journal_i25a3_Typescript.pdf

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-1-

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~'9k·;t;~~~~i6.yage~tO~~.thi~ii·· :'and' the u>,~ ~ ~.A ~
. ·. ·'~. _~l8~.r..;4f.: :<p~n.:~~~~·~;a· [Feb. ~~?~ ~).~16]
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Hong Kong; Monday,'Feby 9 :~·'~846.

.,.:.J~""

\

'- 'Closed a package for the I'slands to go, by the Schooner
Audax pr. hand of' Mr T.heo. Shillaber, and. sent it to

th:~~;~tore
".:}...

of J"a'rdine, Matheson & Co.
After this accompanied by Mr. Bonney} I went in the boat
to town to see what

~ght

be

th~

accommodations of ,a fast boat

and to make inquiries about a passage to Canton.

We went on board

of one which had been chartered at $16 to go to Canton and was to
sail this evening.

The accommodations were .SU9h that I conceived

I might go comfortably in such a.vessel.
taken up by

~~.

Bush

fo~

the

This vessel had been

accommo~ation

of three passengers. A

boat of this description I was infonned goes every night for Canton.

.The price of passage for a. single person is five dollars. I

did not however engage a passage. though I have fully made up my
mind to go this week.-

We did not get back from this excursion

until day light was quite gone, but as the moon is nearly at the
full we had its light to show us our way.
liong Kong, Tuesday Feb. Ie 1846.
Walked to town this mDrning in company with Mr Bonney.
We passed along
shut.

~ueen

Street to the Post office, which we found

I had a small package to leave there but did not leave it

as there was no box for let·ters.
Called at the office of the American ConSUl, F. T. Bush,
Esq~.

who treated us politely and made himself quite familiar. lie

made some inquiries about the islands.

Said he was acquainted with

our Comrrdssioner Brown, and in speaking of him made use of an epi-

-3-

thet, which implied that he held him in no high estimation. that
he regarded him opinionated and overbearing and would
with every body who would not. agree with him.-

~all

out

Mr. Bush inform-

ed me that Cap. Dominis was going to the islands in the Schr.
Swallow.
I fell in afterwards with Cap. Wepber, of the YYiss~~,i:.
con, who informed me that he should go to Whampo.a on Saturday and
would take me passenger.

agreed togo with him. He will also
..
.
be willing to take me to the U. s. - ~h~ I conclude to go thither:
I

..I

;:0..

but I am unwilling to make a particular engagement now: as I shall
wish to ascertain first whether I can get a passage to the islands.
Should I not go to the islands I shall be glad to go with Cap.
Webber, as he is a religious man of the Methodist denomination,
and a very agreeable person.I

visited the market and various shops of the Chinese.

Stopped at a barbers shop ·and witnessed the manner of shaving,
dressing the eyes &. the head, and was amused with process of
shampooing which was performed by various operations of the hands

&. fingers upon the forehead, head neck &. shoulders- beating and
pressing the parts.
Hired a boat for 12i cents to carry us to the foot of
The boat was directed by a woman assisted by several
one
a ~d
.
1 of intelligent cDuntenance.
other
person
of her children &. ~
.
fi!\
the hill.-

Hong Kong, Wednesday, Feby.llth 1846.
I understand there are some case of small pox in this
island.

Mr. Brown has had his youngest child vaCCinated, and

the vaccine principle is now producing its effects at its high st

7

point, and the child is experiencing a good deal of suffering.

,

,~3~

J

Took dinner to day at the house of the Rev. Mr. Stanton
the Colonial Chaplain who of course is of the established Or
Episcopal Church.

He 'is a truly evangeiical man and is much es-

teemed by Mr. Brown" His house is only a few rods from. the house
or! Mr. BFOwn,

were

a~

The Rev. Mr. Bettleheim and family and Dr. Bal:fotil'

at,dinner. Who all

the,afternoon and took tea. At

s~ent

the close of the interview a

~assage

from the

By Mr. Bettleheim

offered

extem~oraneously.

&,

a

~rayer

Scri~tures

was read

liong Kong, Saturday, Feb. 14th 1840.
As this fs the day set by

Ca~.

Webber, to sail for Wham-

:poa, I have be,en making my arrangements to go on board the Wissahickon ,by making a settlement for my board which I have done by
paying ,Mr. Brown $21- which is about $5 ~~week.

It is just one

callendar month to day since I landed from the Congare,e.
I went to the sto re of Jardlne) Matheson &, Co. and
ried a small

~ackage

Audax, which is

CaI~­

of letters to be 'sent to the islands by the

ex~ected

to day from Whampoa.,

I made a farewell call at the house of Mr. stanton. I
saw him 'but 1'Irs,. S. was out

s~ending

the day.

I should have noticed under the date of yesterday that
Drs. Dill &, Balfour called and had an examination of my chest,
which they

~ertormed

by the use of the

stethesco~e.-

They re-

ported that they discovered a thickening of the left lung at the
part where the blood has seemed to proceed from when I have had
turns of hemorrhage but the air still has a passage thro. the

~arts but not so freel," "'so'lii the' rest pt <the lungs.
,

'1:ui:.:-,,!f~f"'?'!O;·:"""""::"

,:" .,"

They ad-

",.$

vise me to keep mysel'r from exposure to cold and to be very careful in regard to diet &, clothing.

With these

~recautions

they

,

'

-4-

tB.~~

did. no t doubt but I might be comfortable for a long time.
In the afternoon Oap. Webber called with the Mdsses
,

,

Ra!ls, and he informed me that he should not sail till next week
probably, not before tuesday. [;:tic..)
I have noticed that Mr., Brownfs infant had been vaccinated: it proves 'not to be cowpox but small pox or variloid: the'
child is quite ill and is covered with pustules, and

s~fers

much.

RongKong, Sabbath Feby 15 1846 .. ;
It is mu.ch colder to day than it has been for several
days past. 'The ship Paul Jones which is destined to Whampoa for
a cargo to the U. S. sailed this morning.
I

did not go to meeting, . and none of. the family went ex-

cept Mr. Bonney, Mr. Brown not beting very well, 'and the illness
of the child requiring the presence of Mrs. B. I have felt a good deal depressed owing to my detention
time
here', and the uncertainty resting over thelof my return to tte
islands.·- My faith too is not in as lively exercise as it ought
to be.
I do not feel that it· was any fault of my own that I
left the islands with an uncertainty, in regard a passage back,
and therefore it is wrong in me, to feel undue solicitude on
this subject.

The Lord will direct.

Hong Kong, MOnday Feby 16 1846.
The Audax was observed to be at anchor yesterday
ing.

morn~

This morning I walked tp the store of Jardine Matheson & 00.

and called upon Mr. Shillaber, whom I found packing up for his
departure, to take place tomorrow morning.

I was happy to learn

that he .had rec d • the letters and packages which I had sent to

-5-

the steTe for the island; which he prcmised to. deliver.infonnation sets my mind at rest

i~egard

This

to the communications

for the islands.
lie reports that Cap. Dominis is expected to sail about
the first of March; but he dees net know whether he can take me.
The Lord,perhaps will open a way for me in one .of the ships of
I

the East India Squadren.
Just before evening a package was handed to Mr. Brown
which proved to be :from the islands containing letters and :pap ers
forwarded ·by the

~rig.

Sir Charles Forbes which sailed :from the

islands on the. 2nd day e:f January.

I was very much rejoiced to

hear frcm my family and of the state of things at the islands.
The death o:f Mr. Whitney was net entirely· unexpected tho. it
'n

eccured soonfr than I expected.

I desire to improve the sad event

as an admcniticn to. myself to. be ready: for at a moment when I
think not the Sen cf man may come.
I had time just to. make a hasty aclillowledgmen t c·f the·
receipt of the letters in a commUnication to. my wife; which I
despatched to. the store o:f Jard1.TI:e, Mathescn

&

Co. to go. on board

the Audax expected to. sail temo.rrow.
I weuld express my thanks to. God fer his careef my fam-

ily during my absence, and also. for the news which has been communicated respecting Evarts"

lie hopes he has experienced religion.

It is my earnest prayer to. God that his hope may prove true and
that he may be entirely devoted to God:and beccme a preacher o:f
the Gospel of the Lord & Savior.

This has always been my hope; a

and it will never cease to. be my prayer that all my children may
be the true friends c:f the Savior and spend their lives in his

-6.-

service.
Hong Kong, Feby.17th 1846. Tuesday.
dust before breakfast the son of Cap_ Webber called to
say that the Wissahickon would sail between 9 & 10

Of

clock and

that it would be necessary for me to be on board soon.' I began
irn:mediately to put my effects .:i,D, a ~or:m to be removed and they
were soon in the hands of the coolies of the establishment and
on their way down the hill to be put in the boat.
. After breakfast I 'liid adieu to the family, and, accom·panied by Mr.• Bonitey, went to the boat which contained my baggage,.
bidding adieu to Mr. B. I left the shore and was rewed to the vessel which lay about a mile and a half distant.

It proved <luite

a hard pull for the boatman, as the wind was strong and not exactly in the right way.

We however got to the vessel safely.

Pretty soon after getting on board the Captain came off with two
other passengers for Whampoa, a Cap. Eldred & a Mr. Prince whom
I had seen before.

Cap. Eldred pretty soon en<luired of me

whether he had not seen me before; and stated that he had once
visited the Sandwich Islands and was detained there some time in
getting his vessel repaired. - the Caci<lue- which wqs laid up at
Robinsonfs wharf.

I thot. I had_seen the gentleman

I immediately recollected him. delay and proceeded on our way'

f~

before~

and

We got under way without much
Whampoa- the wind was pretty

strong and no't exactly in our favpr, by reason of which we had
to beat some of the way.

Just before dark we came to

ancho~

just above Lintin and remained at anchor until the turn of' the
tide when the anchor. was taken up which was at

& we proceeded on oUr way till about sun rise.

t before 8 ock.

-7-

\~

During the night we passed a place called the

Bogue~

1ha;rr,e to obtain a

:permit

where the Captain. had to send a boat
I

to proceed up the !iver.
Wednesday Feby

The Columbus is at. the Bogue.

18,1~6



. Having anchored about sunfis·e on account of

tm

tide not favoring, we remained several hours stationary.
lying here we took breakfast.

After

~while

While

Raving raised a Ii ttle blood I.

dmd not eat very freely: took also
qUiet.-

'wind and

the wind

digitali~~

b~came

and kept. rather

favorable, tho. it was very

light, and the vessel was got under way.

As the sun advanced

towards meridian the atmosphere became warm and I found it pleasant to remain on deck and view the objects in sight.

Cfl

On our

right hand being the eastern side'of the river, saw long ranges
of fishing nets suspended on poles fixed apparently in. the shallcw
water of the shore; the land in that direction was low- in the
·distance were scattering trees.

On the Wiestern side of the river

the land is more elevated' presenting an uneven and broken surfacediversified with hills of gentle elevation- trees and vegetation,
which gave the country a diversified & pleasant appearance. We
had passed a fort on rising ground near which stoan a

pagoda'o~

nine stories towering like a steeple- and in the distance had the
appearance of a monument or a light house.-

The river is more

than a mile in width- the color of the water is yellowish owing
to the mixture of the soil with it-

We passed several boats

deeply laden with mud or clay, which we were told the boatmen
(

were carrying to the sugar refineries, for the purpose of claying./

Whampoa, is the anchorage of vessels receiving their
cargoes from Canton; here were lying q,ui te a number of ships

-8.-

.among ,the rest the U.S.Ship of" War Vincenne,sf also

~uite

a flee:t

"

o.f native vessel's.

The moment a vessel arrives several of" these

native craft come arfound her; indeed they of"ten join her on the
way up and throw a rope on boarc(and are thus towed along or they
'sail along with the same speed as the

vessel.~

, We had one attached
,

,

to us from t,he time we took up anchor in the morning till we
arri.ved among .the shipping.i

We were boarded by several gentlemen and a conveyance
was offered to Cap. Webber and his'passangers to Canton.dinner I

s~lected

to the city.-

~ter

some of my ba'ggage and prepared to take passage

A gentleman by the name of Douglas provided the

boat,- and Cap. Webber Mr. Prince and mYself took passage, the
, boat was manned. by six men

~ndwe

were two hours in making, the

passage - starting at four oTck we arrived at 6 ofck,- or near
that hour.

The shores of the river are low and the banks are

cultiva'ted to the waters edge: many plantains were growing and
l:ow flowering trees of

what~:.kind

i,.,Jee.J

t.h~

s .. jJ

I do not know.-

S~t)Y\e~

ground, even or nearly so, with the

'ta b~

m"J.

water~s_e:dge,

Saw- also' rice
1\ We passed :·also

two pagodas standing near the river both of a like structure,
hav~

-

nine stories.

~
~

~
:. f r~
~

~

~

4illl

ITJJ

They look something like the figure in the

margin odtagon shape. - In passing up we left the main
~f t;1!~

l"iVltl'"

branch, and went through a passage
A

,hey which we shortened the distance.

~alled

ttLob-creek,TT

As we advanced

, towards the city.) or rather that part of Canton which
is outside of the wall, the boats became numerous-both
those that are stationary and those in

motion.~

Tiers

of large boats occupied the shore on both sides,leaving
only a passage between for the boats that come and go,

-9-

and of these there are a vast many literaly covering the water.
As we appr9ached the pier where we were to land the rowers put
out all -their strength and shot by the other boats and thrust the
prow up to the floating pier or platform upon which we landed.
After giving orders to one of the men to

f~llow

us, Cap.

Webber' and I walked ashore.: and . in' a -rew s~eps entered the public
walk wherebj;he foreign inhabitants go abroad to take the air and
regale

themselves~

foreign community.

o

r,fuis is the only proID¢.nade allowe.d to tI::te
Here we saw ladies

& gentlemen,

parsees

,&

chinamen moving in the different walks presenting in the whol~
very lively appearance.

I walked on with a pretty quick step not

stopping to make observat ions-being intent on my own business
which was to find the. residence of Dr.' Bridgman and pbtain coolies
to bring up my baggage.-

Cap. W. made some inquiries, but being

anxious to attend to his own business he left me to the conduct
of the boatman, whom I followed & with a quick step passed 'through
the narrow passages thronged with. natives all driving hither &
thither, My guide enquired for Bridgemana to whose house we were
directed.
them-

He and his wife were out, but a servant started after

I followed not knowing then that I had reached the house

where they reslde.

Meeting a gentleman and lady, and judging

they
that~might

be able to give me the information I

quired for the residence of Dr. Bridgman.

des~ed,

I in-

The gentleman gave me

his hand and said he could in a manner so significant that I was
not at a loss for the knowledge I sought.

In a moment I was at

his door and was introduced to the lady as Mrs. Bridgman, with
whom I entered, and, we together ascended the wide dark stair case
leading from the go down to the rooms occupied by the

family~ Mr.

-10-

Bridgman in the meantime despatching some coolies with the boatman to bring up my baggage from the boat, which in a short time
was snugly' deposited in a little room which she called the
"Prophets Chamber."

I was much fatigued and fo r a moment e:qe-

rienced an unusually severe pain in my side; but which however
subsided as soon as· I had time to rest.-

My reception was very

cordial, and I was requested to make myself quite at home.was soon

prepare~

T€a:\

and we sat down in a very social way around a

circular table to partake of the evening refreshment which to
~as

qUite agreeable.

The company consisted of Mr.

~ ~rrs.

Mr. James Bridgman a cousin of the Drs' and myself.-

me

Bridgman

I felt at

onee quite at home,beihg now with a missionary of the A. B. C. F. M.
Dr. Parker & Dr.

and near others supported by the same Society.'Ball being these missionaries.

Dr. & ~ITs. Bridgman walked out in

the evening to make a call and left me to sit by the fire till
the±r:.::retm:m or retire to my room as should be most agreeable to
Being fatigued I chose to retire at an early hour, and there-

:me.

fore d'id not wait for their return.
Family worship was conducted in Chinese by Dr. B. attended by the domestics and others of the family-

Scriptures read

verse by verse in turn.
Thursday, Canton', FebT 19,1946
The clatt'er of the

wa~chman

walking with his alarm stick

is heard here from 8 otck at night until morning, just as at Hong
Kong.

Rere the watchman strikes two blows at 8 ofck- and in-

creases the number at intervals till day light.th~

I presume from

noise which I heard that there are watchmen connected with

each house or hong.-

The alarm stick is a short piece of a large

size bamboo, which they strike with a short stick.-

At Hong Kong

-11-

from 8 to 10 otck they give one blow from 10 to 12 they give two
blows and increase one stroke every two hours until break of day,
when they strike repeatedly and resign the watch.-

Here at day

break the clattering of the sticks is so great that it

is

cient, I should think, to wake up the whole neighborhood.
least it waked me up this mDrning.

I think

a1sos~e

men make use of a small gong - a brass instrument

a.. pot-lid

in form but of larger size.-

to employ an efficient

police,~

suffiAt

of the watch-

~amething li~e

It is probably

neces~ary

and this watch, through the night

giving the different strokes, +,urnishes ·an index to the hour.
Family worship was attended before breakfast with the
Chinese of the establishment with reading of the Scriptures the
same as last night.

I walked out with Dr; B. this forenoon and

called upon Dr. Ball and Dr. Parker. they occupy different·ho¥ses.
Dr. Ball lost his wife same two years ago and he has lost since
two (sons) of his children.

He has two daughters living.

I soon

: found that Dr. Ball had seen me 'before, tho.·r did not recollect
at first having ever seen him.

He informed me that he was a schol-

ar in Phillips Academy at Andover at the time I was there: and
also that he was at New Haven at the time of my embarkation for
tbe islands.-

After awhile I racovered my recollection of him
....
as a devoted young man whom I had seen at the Academy- though I
believe I was never very intimate with· him.
.

.

Dr. Parlteris a gentleman of a very pleasant countenanceso.~mewha t

portly and of very good mahners.

I was introduced is an engagi~g woman.

f,3Q;'

His wife also to whom

He gave me some infarma-.

t-A<:)-Jll~ regard to the plans o~' Con:rq.~: Biddle - which was presented in confidence- namely that it was the expectation of the

-12/

e~m~~

to visit the islands in the

Columbus~

First he will go to

Manilla and then return to this place- afterwards go up the coast
to,Amoy and other places and then proceed to the Sandwich Islands
and after that run down the western course of South America.

He

will doubtless take the course generally pursued'by the ships of
the East India Squadron that visit our islands .
. 1 closed up my calls by going to the Establishment of
Messrs.Russell

&.

Co.• with a view to obtain information respecting

Cap. Dominis: and as he had gone down to Wh amp 0 a, I
to address him a letter.

w~s

advised

On my.neyUrn 1 did this informing him

of my desire to obtain a passage to the. islands and mnquiring
whether I could have that accommodation.~n

the afternoon accompanied by Mr. J. Bridgman I walk-

ed out among the shops of the China- ~erchants.

It would .require

more skill than I possess to give a just description of what passed before me in the short period of my walk.

I seemed to be in one

extended mass of building - indeed for m.ost .of the way I walked not
under the canopy of heaven but overshadowing screens.

1 did not

measure the walks; .(for the streets deserve no other name), but
the widest did not exceed 10 or 12. feet, and some it seems to me,
a
were not more than 6 or 8 - filled with Chin~ men moving like
a stream in eddying confusion: it was more than one could do to
keep a'straight course.- To describe the persons and things which
.came under my

obser~ation

within the limits of these walks would

occupy many pages, and, after all, no adequate idea would be communicated of the variety of persons and things '- of the noises and
the rushing. ~ Chair after chair with their carriers and riders
rush by you taking up most of the whole of the path - here a

-13-

string of men puffing along and calling to clear the path, with
burdens of fire wood sawed

~nd

split in short & small pieces sus-

pended by a short'auamo across the shoulders -

bearing .larger and more bulky packages

~

pass by you)others

Some with broad shallow

tubs or troughs containing live fish flapping in water just enough
to keep +ife in them- here a

man with a huge stick of timber on

his shoulder,;almost ",crushed down under his burden, hurries on and
"'~?{\7.~"

turns a corner- another has his arms full· of packages intent on
pushing his way attrantsyour

atte~tion

crowd. ---- all however are not bearers of·

as he winds through the
burdens~

here- one walks

along more leisurly with a huge paii of spectacles astride of his
nose: and this is not a solitary instance
nasal organ thus' mounted far the

~enefit

many are seen with the
of the optic members of

the front.
As to the shops, most of them, in .the streets through
which I passed, were open in front having the goods so exposed that
you had but to turn your eyes to. have a view of all the shop contained) Shopping must be exceedingly easy.

In some of the streets,

however, the shops are deep, and you must enter in. order to gain
a knowledge of the commodities that they contain.-

Different

streets are appropriated to different articles and artisans.
noticed a

r~nge

I

of shops in which seemed to be nothing but glass

ware . . Other lines of stores- contained- looking glasses and paintings.- Others were variety stQIl'.'es.memory all that I saw.

I did not however, commit to

I must take a great many more looks at

China mart before I shall be qualified to give an account of every
thing,- that it to say

~

if I possessed the talent to do it in

an intelligible manner.
During this excursion I had the satisfaction of falling

:"14-

in with.Mr. 'Tobey who came passenger in the Sir Charles Forbes
from the islands.

From him I

age, to this port of 33 days.

le~rned

that

th~

vessel had a pass-

That vessel will not return to the

islands and he will have to depend for a return on some opportunity that may present or charter a small vessel for the purpose.
learned from him that the Euphemia which when I left, was_ex-

I

pec ted sometime in the year to sail from the islands, will, nO.t
be

~ent, but the .schr_Mary will be despatched in its stead.

This

information decides the point of dependence on that vessel.-· I
am

now brought to a definite point in regard to a passage to 'the

islands - it

must be by ·the East India Squadron.

If I cannot

depend upon that, I ,must go by the way of the U. S.-.
This evening I attended in company with Dr. &. Mrs. Bridgman a prayer meeting at the house of Dr. Ball.-

The

m~eting

in an upper story, the room was small and well filled.
were 'several ladies present and a few strangers.

was

There

I learned after

meeting that Cap_ Paulding of the U. S. Ship Vincennes was.one.

(1 have some li'ttle douht notwithstanding of the correctness of
the report.)
Canton, Friday, Feby 20th 1846Dr. Parker called this forenoon and was attended by
de Biddle to whom I was introduced, but without receiving any
Com.
more attention than a slight casts:>f the eye._

He was, however;

engaged in conversation with Dr. Bridgman, and probably did not
regard me as deserving any particular notice, which was indeed
sufficiently true; though a person always feels a gratification
in receiveng attention particularly from his superiors.-

I felt

for the moment that it might not be expedient for me to think of

-15-

a

~assage

in the Squadron to the islands.

a justifiable feeling.-

This however was not

Commodore is a small man- his hair is

rather silvered with age - and is I should think

upwar~of

I have no doubt he may prove to be a pleasant man.
man under authority
serve his rank.

he

First

sixty.·

But being a

must conduct himself with dignity andpre~.. .
impress~ons

are often spoken of as having

a great influence on the mind, and as greatly affecting
and opinion in regard to character.

jud~ent

I have no doubt of the cor-

rectness of the sentiment: that is - we gain an opinion of a man
at first sight.

When we first see a person, if we think at all

we form some sort ofa judgment- or to say the least we have an.
idea created of some kind or another.-

Often it is undefined,but

as we have time to reflect. we assign form and limits to what at
first might have been a mere shadow.

I do not subscribe to the

sentiment that our first impressions are most likely to be true
. in respect to the character of a man.'-

.

..

(aCt)

.

Many try to produce a

strong impression,\fot' first sight, and therefore lay·. themselves
out to that effect.
Dr. Parker. brought his stethescope and· gave my chest
a thorough examination.

He said he ·would inform me hereafter

of the result and give his opinion & advice.-

I may with pro-

priety m.ention here that- when Dr. Parker came in he conducted
Com. Biddle into Dr. Bridgman's room and then game to my room
where he made his examination - that we cam.e out together and I
was intDoduced simply as Mr. Chamberlain as I entered the rooll,
the Com~~·being engaged in conversation with Dr. B. -

I just

~\

notice these circumstances to account for my not receiving any
rAc.

more attention from the COmIDDdore'-A I should have felt it to be

-16\

had he noticed me as he

the room, which he did not.

le~t

a great matter a little fire kindles !)
Cap. Webber &. his son called during the day.

He in-

commodate me in the Swallow, having recently seen Cap. D. and
re<l~ested

by him -to make' this statement to me.

Of course'

prepared for the positive information thus communicated

There is one question yet· to be decided and that is shall'
.go to the U. S. or shall I try ·to get a passage to the islands"

c~:

'by the U. S. ~hip ColUIIlbus • . There are at present several vessels
-:.'~i

,

.

. !~·oon to sail for the' U. S.- viz: N~tchez; Paul, Jones - Tartar . :~;-,

.

the latter vessel is owned by Oliphant &. Co.
Canton, Saturday, Feby_ 21st. 1846.
~-"

.

. A gentleman took breakfast with the family this morning,
~c

by the name of Spfonfer a young g~ntleman from Boston who has been
.'

resident about three years in China.

He is about to. take passage

in the Paul 'Jones which is ·to sail on the 27th inst. for New
York-

He also informed us that the Tartar belonging to Oliphant

&. Co. would sail on Tuesday next.
.~ion

I was induced by this informa-

to request the brethren to take up my case and give me their

:):;'

.advice in regard to the course I ought to pursue, as in case it

;

'should se ern. expe di en t that I sho uld pur sue my v9yage to the U.

.~

m.y decision should be made so as to avail myself

0

l'

s.

one of the

;~.,

.~.

~i~seels soon to sail, and I thought favorably of the Tartar on

::;~l~

:'account of the generous disposition of Mr. Oliphant,and Dr. Bridg-

'. :~::;.,

j;..

::man

;;~:

ascertained that a passage rn.igh t be obtained in that vessel.-

'Having made known to Dr. Bridgman my wishes) Dn Parker &. Ball
'~:':'

::were invited in to consult.~

They made a further examination of

-17-

my chest) and. received from me an account of the health and consti-

tution which have been exhibited 'in my case from
enee of hemorrhage at about the age

o~

the~i~st

exist-

18 up to the present time.

In giving the account of my illness last fall and stating to
them the offensive matter which I
Parker at once.and

unhesit~tingly

rai~ed

assigned the cause of it to an

abcess, upon the outer coat 01'. the lungs.
opening in the lungs, as the air passed
Whole extent of the lungs.

during that Sickness, Dr.

He said it had' left no
freel~

He e'xamined :me both

throughout
befor~

th~

and behind

and did not find evidence of tubercular phthisis: he sai~ my lungs
ar e weak and I shall be in danger of attacks of hemorrhage as
long as I live.

He says I continue to re tain a good deal of elas-

ticity of constitution and I s4all be likely to rally from these
attacks.

The brethren hesitated in regard to adVising my. going

to the U. S., on account of the exposure to which I should be
subject: especially in returning around Cape Horn.

They· thought

on the whole if my inclinations led me to return ·direct to the
islands, it might be well for me to remain in Canton & few months
as an experiment of this climate, and then return to the islands
by the East India Squadron.
This investigation
fear

o~

God.

has~

I trust, been conducted in the

Certain it is that in submitting my case to the

brethren I felt· I was pursuing the right way and I was ehabled
to ref-er the decision to the Lord.

The lot is cast into the lap,

but the whole disposal thereof is of the Lord.

I was enabled to

say, ttBrethren, the Lord guide you in your decision and advice. n
And when they recommended :me to remain I felt an entire satisfaction with the decision.
Dr. Parker went out to see the Commodore on the subject

-18-

of a passage in the

C<?l~b::'!~_}

time with his report.

and he returned in a very short

He said he had a friend a very worthy per-

~, to use his own language, who desired to return to the Sand-

wich Islands; and he wished to know whether a passage could be
afforded him in the Columbus.- The Comodore said yes, and there
shall be no· charge for passage.

The vessel will be detained in

China and hereabouts for two or three months, in which time she
will visit Manila.My duty at ·present is ·plain to remain here.

When I

shall be required to go on board I do not know: and whether I·.
shall go in the vessel to·Manila I do not know.

I trust my course

will be made plain.
To a person of my turn of mind a passage in such a
vessel is a subject of no very pleasant anticipation.
yet seen none of the officers but the Commodore.

I have as

There are names

·in the list of officers which I have seen ·before.
Captain Wyman was probably the same· offic·er that commanded the John Adams which Visited the islands in 1839.Guillon was at Ronolul u in 1840 connec ted with the .
ron., D. M.

Fairfa~

E:z:plo~

br.
Squad- .

is one of the passed Midshipmen - and he was

probably at the islands in 1839 - was one of the young men which
used to call with Mr. Rheil.
I haYe in my possession a list of the officers and I
intend to make myself ere I go on board as familiar as possible
wi th a.II the name s •
Had a call this day from Cap. Dominis who sails on Wednesday next for the Sandwich Islands.-

He said he should have

been most willing to afford me a passage in the Swallow, but the

-19-

state of the accommodations rendered it absolutely impossible.

He

has one passenger, who takes some freight and the accommodations
al~otted

invalid.

to this passenger would be altogether unsuitable

f~

It is perfectly obvious that independently of her

an

crowd~

ed condition she 'would be an undesirable vessel far- passage to a
person out of health.This afternoon attended by Dr. Bridgman I visited a
Chinese temple.

It is one of the most extensive ones in China.

The buildings cover an area·of more than 10 acres.

It was not the

time 'of worship and so we did not behold the priests at their de,votions,; but we saw many of the Priests and Dr. B. held conversation with several of them and distributed copies of a Tract-an
extract from the Epistle to the 'Romans.-

Its site is on the

opposite side of the river which is reached by a ferry.
of the boats we stepped, and in a

Into one

or two a sufficient num-

mi~ute

ber ,of passenger were on board- for a load- and we wer,e sculled
across - each man paying as passage money two cash, which were
thrown down in the bottom of the boat.

As 1200 cash make a dollar

a boat must ,carry 600 passengers to make a dollar per day: but
there is a constant plying backwar.d & forward, and the distance
is short - The boat is

~1
ma~ed
A

fLIard

() k.J

by- one manly~ only.-

The houses on

the other side of the river are not so high and not so large as
on the side where the factories are.

The streets however are

narrow and thronged and one must ponder well the path of his feet
if he would get along without running against somebody.

Dr.

Bridgman having brought a handful of Tracts distributed here and
there one to the passers.

He had only to stop and offer them to

find a multitude ready 'to receive them.

He had before crossing

-20-

the river given out a dozen ormDre copies of one of the Evangelists this was at the door where the books were kept in an ally
not far from Mr. Ets house.There is no

the book.

The people seemed eager to receive

difficul~y

in giving away thousands of

copies of the Gospels or of any book the 'mission have to distribute;'
I~

The question is are such books read"!!' Dr. B. says they are.

so, the distribution of books is of itself a very important

work.

Ones eyes affect his heart on such an excursion.

There

is an overwhelming population;- you cannot step into the streets
without being pressed on every hand the ways are like a~ver­
flowing stream.80,000 boats
th~

On 'the river of Canton it is said there are
"

r,

eighty thousand boats 'on the river connected with

Canton population.--it is almost incredible 1-

water teem with inhabitants.labor.-

Both' land and

What a field this for' miSSionary

I inQuired what kind of treatment a missionary received

from the populace.". ttEvery kind, tt

I was informed- sometimes

insolent and sometimes decent.
Foreigners are called in the way of reproach Fanqui- the
meaning of ,which. is Foreign Devil.-

Mr. B. is sometimes called -

the Story telling devil this is because he preaches and addresses
The cousin of Dr. B. was out in another direction

the people.

this afternoon and he received very severe handling fram the people.
He was out on the Western side of the city and not very far from
the wall.

By mistake he happened to get wi thin one of the gates

and was immediately shoved out and pursued, some of the boys
sending stones at him.

It was by mistake that he got into the

city, having lost his way, and it was well he got off without a
broken head.-

A sort of hue and cry was raised of tTKill the deviltt.

-21-

This Mr. B. said did not sound very pleasant.to his ears- and
surely it was less pleasant to feel the stones upon the back and
head: and to defend his head he was obliged to pull down his hat
over his eyes.' It was not because of his missionary character,
however, that he was thus assailed, but on account of having

wan~

4ered too far from home and excited the fear that he was intending to get into the city.
The populace are now exceedingly jealous of.foreigners, and
those who reside in and near. the city are on the look out to drive
every foreigner awa¥.-

The people of Canton have always been'very

insolent to foreigners, and what they experienced a few years ago
was not sUfficient to tame them.
To return to the Temple which I visited-

I wish I posessedQ

the. power of description - but as I do not I must deal in generals.
The area in which the principle buildings stand is Surrounded by
a wall- against which are the cells of the priests- ?r devotees of
the temple. -

I no·ticed three build ings of one peculiar structure .

occupying the centre of the area- the structure very much resemb(SI.,.J

ling what I have often seen on Chinese crockery ware.
one in front of the other.

Standing
.
/I.

Between each is a pretty wide space

occupied by banyan trees - a paved walk passing 'from the entrance
to the first building to which you have easy access by a few stone
steps and a. wide .pla tform..

From the first building to the second

is a similar walk and so from the secnnd to the third: and in'each
yard in a space on each hand of the pavement grows a stately banyan
tree - making six trees in the three courts besides a row of the
same kind of trees against the portions of the wall not occupied
with buildings or lodges for the devotees:-

The trees or at least·

some of them are truly majestic, and cast a very pleasant shade-

-22-

. indeed the branches in a great measure interlock and overshadow
the entire space - or to say the least- a great part of it.- It
mu~t

be a very refreshing retreat in a hot day_

The boughs too

are the lodging place of marry birds, the form and plumage af:'
which I did not get a very full and satisfactory view of.

I saw

however one large whitish bird .which I took to be a stork - calling
to mind that the stork is a sacred bird in

China.~

One might al-

most envy the birds their habitation - probably they are defended
from sacrilegious handt that would destr~y their life.-

I wanted

much longer time to linger within the walls and to wander through
the buildings: but I suppose people are n9t allowed to stay very
long.-

Now as to what I saw within.

The first image which I saw
(Sie)

was not less than twelve feet in height a hfdtousA190king creat-.
ure in human form.with a head as big as a hogshead and eyes stand, [s/t.J

ing out glaring furiously.

One of these h£dious", creat. ures occu-

pied a recess on each hand of the entrance.

I saw no less than six

of the same kind of figures occupying different situations within
the enclosure, all however, within buildlngs.
The building which occupied the central position seemed.
to be the principal house of gods as in this I noticed eight large
images occupying a platfonn on the west side and as many'more on
the side opposite - and

an

the body of the room were two of a mon-

strous size much like those that I have mentioned as standing in
a recess at the entrance.
The house was rather dark, but it was lighted with wax
candles- which reminded me

of Catholic worship-

Indeed the

habit~ and cells of the priests brought strongly to my mind tbe

monastic system of the Church of Rome, or at least what I have

-23-

read of that system.

Rere we saw a Chinese lady who we supposed

had come to worship.

She
was low in stature - with little feet
,

and dressed in ornamental style.
in dark garments

~

There was also another female-

which I supposed might be an inmate of the

temple - perhaps a

hefthen Ana.

edge of the true God.

0 that she might gain' the knOWl-

Thepriest$ were dressed in long loose gar-

ments of a dark color - most of them appeared to be persons advanced in years -

I

thi~

all who I saw had their heads

..

17

.

~haved,

no t having the cue .:like the Chine se in general. . My bee lings while
walking the area and through the buildings with the ensigns of
idolatry before me were indiscribable.-:- 0 when shall light dawn
·~pon this darkness- nThe gods that have not made the earth and

the heavens shall perish from off the earth and from under these

I could pRay from the heart 0, hasten this time,glo-.

heavens. tt -

rious Jehovah, who hast so long been insulted by the idolatry of
the heathen.• -

The trees and the birds that sing. in the branches

will rise' up in judgment against man, who, made iI,1 the image· of.
God and indued with reason and understanding, yet bows down to an
[sicJ

image of his own handsAmaking.
This has been a day of no ordinary interest to me. What
effect its incidents may have on.my future life I know not.

I

have decided to remain some time longer in China & when I go home
to take passage in a ship of war, where many eyes will be on me. I
often inquire
the world?

Why is it that I have been brought to this part of
Why is it that I have been called thus to wander from

home - from.:my appropriate field of labor and to pass so much time
in apparently doing nothing?

It is my prayer that the Lord would

use my poor services to his glory.

Amen.

-24-

Canton, Sabbath, Feby 22, 1845.
~

At 11 otck an English service was conducted at the resi-.

dence of Dr. Parker - at which I attended in company with Dr. &
Mrs. Bridgman and Mr. .Tames Bridgman.

The congregation amounted

to about 20 persons- perhaps a few more- the services
formed by Dr. Parker- the
Ilal form.-

firs~

b~ing

per-

part of them being in the Episco-

His sermon was scriptural and soand and his extempore

prayer was good and edifying.

I under-stand that the Clerical

·brethren take turns in conducting the services •.
In the afternoon I went to the Hospital, where a service
is conducted in Chinese, sometimes to a congregation of 50 or 60 •
..

The numb·er wtis less than 50 this afternoon.

Dr. Bridgman read

and expounded from the New Testament, after he had closed his
address- a Chinese continued the service by reading a hymn which
was sung to the tune of Ortonville and then expatiated from a
passage in the Testament., the imIlort of which I did not learn.After the. serv;i.ce s Dr. Bridgman distributed a trac t containing one
of the Gospels.
In going to and from meeting we witnessed the same bustle
&

aytention to business which is wi tnessed on all other days ..This

of course would be readily sUIlIlosed to be the case, so far as the
heathen population is concerned: but one would hope better things
of those who have received their birth and education in Christian
lands: but I was pained to learn that there is little regard paid
to the Sabbath on the part of the merchants - that they conduct
business on the Sabbath much as on other days.-

A sad example

this before the heathen, and a great reproach to th·e Christian
name.-

Alas! so would it be in lands nominally Christian.- and

-25-

~

so would people of the world be glad to have it every where.

They would do their own work and find their own pleasure regardless of the command of God- to"Remember the Sabbath day to keep
it holy." -

May my children be of another mind-

may they rever-

'ence Godts authority and yield cheerful obedience to his commandments.
This evening a prayer meeting was conducted at the house
of Dr. Bridgman.

It was attended by a few of the good people.

This is the fir'st meeting, and it is to be continued.

T

These

meetings it. is to be hoped will have a good effe·ct upon the personal piety of those that attend.
I took cold on my passage from Rong Kong and have had·
some cough; but have not been laid up by it.

Dr. Parker has fur-·

nished me with some cough drops, and I hope to find myself improving very soon.

I have had no appearance of blood in my ex-·

pectoration since I arrived - . none since the s~ight appearance
on Wednesday last ..
Canton, MDnday Feby 23, 1846.
I am as well today as usual, and I am pre.paring to send
this little memorandum for the islands.

Cap. Dominis said he

would calIon Tuesday and take my letters.
Have an invitation to tea this evening at Dr. Ballts,-I am now returned having had a very pleasant interview.
I met the family consisting of Dr. Ball & daughter a very pretty
young lady of the age of 16 or a little more -

Mrs. Marshall &

Miss Robertson Scotch ladies - sisters- the latter to be married
it is said to Dr. Ball.home.-

The other daughter of Dr. B. was not at

I saw also the Bandwich Island female which Mr. Williams

J

/'

-26-

\

r

"

gave us an account of as being with her fathex & 6 othexs picked
up at sea.-

'i . ~