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Book No. 5-
[Ma'r.30-Apr.28, 1846]
Canton, MOnday March 30,1846.
Received letters this morning from the Sandwich Islands.
~he last date was Feby 16.
The package came from Hong Kong having
been brought to 'China by the Schooner Mary belollging to Skinner
& Co. and commanded by Mr. Sewerscroop, or at least the letters
came by his hand.
In receiving these co:mrnunications just at this time I
have another instance of the kind ordering of providence.
Had I
left on Friday, as was contemplated, or any time before to day, I
should have failed to receive,' the intelligence, which I now have,
from home, and failed of course of communicating the fact to my
wife. '
All my arrangements
be~ng
completed and being inSormed
that I must be on board of the Lucas this evening, it was thought
best I should not wait for the Captain who would not get
away till
evening; so a passage boat was employed and my baggage sent on
board.
.Ii t
about 3
0 1
ck I took leave 'of my kind friends at the
house of Dr. Bridgman and accompanied by himself I proceeded to
the boat, and there bidding adieu to my kind fr&end, I took my
seat.
The passage down was rather long, being a'oout 3 hours
half', the distance being only ? or 8 miles.
a
&.
'I easily found the
vessel and was received on board with due attention y and
short~y
took to my berth feeling much exhausted by the days excitement and
labors.
The Captain arrived at about 9 otck in the evening.
I
should have noticed that the Captain's lady was on board, who very
k1n~ly
received me and gave directions to the .steward t a make up
my bed in my
stateroo~~
and provide a sufficient quantity of out0
-2.-
side covering, of which I had not a supply.
At Whampoa.
Tuesday, March 31st 1846.
Early in the morning I heard movements of getting under
. way.
The machinery connected with the windlass for taking up the
anchor was in operation under the willing hands of :part of the
crew- while another portion were
en~ed
connected with getting ready to sail.
in executing' other orders
Pretty soon
al~;
sailing
movements were stopped,the anchor was allowed to go bac!: again
and a"great scope of chain was let out- a
s~uall
had sprung up
and blew furiously for awhile, which "seemed for a few moments to
endanger her running afoul of another vessel lying near.
sQuall was of
shor~
The
contiuuallce, and it was not long before move-
ments were again made of getting under way, and we were soon in
a moving state) the vessel being surrounded with Chinese hoats,
whose owners had been along side
waiting to close up their con-
cerns with the Captain, the comprodore, not least important had
his claims to be attended to- and as the vessel moved very slowly
and had several times in
conse~uence
of tide, wind or current, to
come to anchor, there was abundance of·tine to make settlements
with all those who had any
deman~s.
I should here notice that I raised some blood this
morning.
I know of no reason for it except the unusual exc.ite-
ment and exertions of·yesterday.
In getting
everJ'~hing ready to
go there was necessarily required an effort, and then in the
",
.
midst of this, to receive letters from my family, which, as I should
not have another opportunity to acknowledge, I was desirous to
notice in my Glosing communication to my w.ife, to be left and sent
-3-
to the islands by the first opportunity- probably by the Mary to
return
somet~e
hence,-
all these things affected me and produc-
ed a heavy pulsation, and is the only assignable cause of
blood.
ra~sing
I continued in my ~tateroom during the day, and had
arrow-root supplied by myself & made by the steward brought to me
fo r my food.
A dead light opening into the side of my stateroom immediately over my berth, was lifted and through this aperture I-was
able to look out and see something of the shore and what was lying
tin the wa tel.' or passing by us as we slowly moved down the river.
The Captain enquired after my health several times and
instructed me to call upon the steward toprovi<ie for me anything
I might need for my com.:fort.
Wednes-day April 1st 1846.
l:l.aving come to anchor last night near the Bogue, the
fir-st thing this morning that was heard was that of the work of
getting under way; which was soon accomplished, and we were again
moving down the river with a very light breeze.
ning and rain -at intervals during the day.
Had thunder, light-
Towards evening a
smart breeze sprung up, but it was not exactly in our favor, and
the pilot was discharged giving the proper course to steer in
order to run clear of the islands in sight.
The Captain paid him
his fee & made a present of some beef and bread.I have not raised any more blood, and being unwilling
to confine myself to my stateroom longer than
my
seat at the table for dinner.
i~
too~
I proposed a blessing at meals
to which the Captain very readily gave consent.
C~i~
the proposition I would
necessary, I
attribu~e,\
His readiness to
to the good pleastlr.e
0
f God}
and here record my thanks to the giver of all good for his mercies.
-4-
It is a great comfort to me to be able aJ'every meal to address
,
tSleJ
God in an auuable1\ manner.
May my conduct in all respects be con-
si~tent.
With the assistance of the steward I had my trunks placed in my stateroom so as to be easily got at and opened.
Thursday April 2nd. 1846.
The wind' during the night was light and not much in our
favor and we of course made but little progress, though we have
gained a safe offing.
Had some pretty heavy thunder this
~ning,
the sound' of which rolling in majesty over the waters reminded me
of the description pf the phenomenon as c'ontained in the 29th
Psalm which I read.
I
am more comfortable than I have been since my embark-
ation.
The Grand Ladrone was seen in the distance.
t have read again the letters of my de,ar Wife which came "
to hand on the' day of my leaving Canton.
I was permitted to receive them.
I
feel very
th~nkful
that
I must be long separated from
my dear family but I pray they may be'kept from all evil and preserved in life and that I may experience the wish of the apostle
in the behalf of himself and his associates contained in the. following expressions:
Now God himself and our Father and our Lord
Jesus Christ direct our way unto you. 1 Thes. 3;11
So may I be
directed back to my friends at the Sandwich Islands.
This day the Captain Calls the day of his departure,
and counts from this.
FridaY,April 'zrd. 1846.
The morning sun with pleasant rays is now shining
through the dead light into my stateroom; the wind blows moderate-
ly and the sea is smooth: canary birds are singing merrily in
their cages hung up in the cabin.
The sight and sound are agree-
able and cheering to the spirits after a long period of gloomy
weather - cold and rain experienced while shut up in Canton. Read
Ps. 30: 2 & 3. and prayed the Lord that if consistent with his will
the· sentiment might be fulfilled in my experience : "0 Lord, God I
cried unto thee and thou hast healed me.
0 Lord, tho.u has brought
up my soul from the grave: and thou hast kept me alive that I
should not go down to the pit."
The Lo:r-d knows how much I desire
to be restored to my family again, and I doubt not the willingness of God to grant my desires, and that they will be granted if
it shall be for his glory;
Lat. 21
0
Nor cam I desire it otherwise.
14'. Long. 1l3° 46.
Ther. ?7°
The Great Ladrone is in Lat. 21 0 57t.
I find the temperature
time since I came to Canton.
~uite
agreeable more so than any
A pleasant day and moon & stars
visible at night.
Saturday, April 4th 1846.
Lat. 20 0 48 1
Long. 1140 021.
•
Another pleasant day though the atmosphere continues to
be somewhat thick though not so much so as to shut out the rays
of the sun.
A light Southerly breeze, which being ahead causes
our progress to be slow.
Y~sterday
saw pumace stone floating upon the water: the
Captain scooped up a piece and preserved it.
It is like that
which was picked up in the Pacific when I came down in the Congaree.
Sabbath, April 5th 1846.
This has been to me a Quiet and pleasant Sabbath as
regards my mind.
The time has been employed in reading "and con-
-6-
tem~lation
profit.
and attempts to pray.
I hope not altogether without
Still I have to lament my
s~iritual
barrenness and that
my-soul is not fruitful and vigorous as a watered garden.
Rave
read two chapters in the "Fountain of Life," and two also in Baxterts ~Saints Rest".
These works are rich in religious sentiment
I have had so,mething of a .. diarrhoea ever since I came on
board, which is attended with pain and flatulency.
p~ragoric
I have taken
and peppermint several times and I have also taken
"cordial1T prepared for this kihd of complaint, which the Captain
was kind enough to furnish me; but I do not yet obtain relief,
.t bough I hope the complaint will no t be come obs tina te:
Perhaps
it may be the effects of the sea, and may have taken the place of
sea-sickness, with which, in its ordinary way, I. have not been
affected.
All has been still on board the vessel, nothing in the
form of work has been going.
The sailors appeared in clean gar-
ments, and they are released from every duty except that necessary
to sailing.
Monday, April 6th 1846.
The weather continues to be moderate, with the wind from
the southward as usual and of course against a head wind our progress has been slow.
Lat. N. 19° 35 f
•
E. Long. l15°. 25 t
Ther.
81.
I am getting better of my diarrhoea.
Tuesday April 7 1846.
N. Lat. 18
0
47t
E. Long. 1130 52.
The weather is pleasant and the breeze brisk; but being
ahead, our progress is slow having for the last 24 hours been only
-7-
48 miles - that i3- so many miles on our
co~rse,
tho. we have sail-
oed more than three times that distance in the form of beating.
Wednesday, April 8th 1846.
Lat. N. 18~ 03:
E. Long 112°. Ogl.
Ther.
Fine weather, fresh southerly breezefor a more favorable wind.
80°
Captain anxious
I would desire to feel that it is of
the Lord that made the wind that-we are delayed.
We shall doubt-
less experience many such delays during the voyage, and I would
therefore pray-to be prepared for them and to beheld submissive
under them;
Why should anyone be dissatisfied with what is of
the LordTs appointment.
Our advance to the South 44 rri.iles- ·r desire to be thankful that my diarrhoea is removed.
Thursday April 9 1846.
N. Lat. 17°.13' Long. E. 113°, 54!. Ther. 81°'
Vifeather direction of wind and progress very much as
yesterdaT.- say 53 miles southing.
Nothing to note except tnat a shark was seen beneath the
waves- flying-fish skimming occasionally above them & birds flying
over in pursuit.
p~sued
These poor things have no restor safety - While
by fish under the surface, and by birds of
a
pr~y
seize them above, they have a narrow chance of escape.times the Saint seems to be pursued.
How can he
esc~pe
ready to
So somebut by
flying to Jesus.Friday, April lOth 1846.
N. Lat. 16
0
50 t
,
E. Long. 114° 05 T •
Ther.
83 0
Pleasant in every respect except in that of advance as
during the last 24 hours we have only gained 23 miles - The Caphad
tain thinks that we have a current setting to the north which has
I'-
-~
retarded us at least 50 miles.
A ship in sight to the leeward of us.
The latter part of this day the wind has been a little
mDre favorable, though 3 points at least from the right direction.
Evenings very pleasant; moon near the full.Saturday April 11th 1846.
Lat. 15 0 29.
E. Long. 1l5°. 44 1
•
Ther. 83
o
Have advanced to the southward 84 miles; but are at least
a degree to the west 'of the course which with a fair wind we should
pursue.
More sail has been added to the ship that every possible
advantage may be gained by the mer e favorable direction of the
wind, tho. it is now three points adverse.
The
s~ip
which have in
sight yesterday continues in sight having gained a little upon the
wind.
Sometime about 9 otck this evening we were passed by
a bark bound up the China sea. Did not speak.,
- This incident
occurred under the following date Sabbath.
Sabbath, April 12th 1846.
N. Lat. 15 0 34t.
E. Long. 112 0 55
Ther.
84.
A veLY pleasant and qUiet day and making pretty good
progress.
I have enjoyed satisfaetion in reading the ttFountain
of Life tt and rtMute Christian T1 •
I earnestly desire the blessing of
God on these privileges.
Monday April. 15th. 1846.
N. Lat. 11
0
42.
E. Long. 112 0
Ther.
84.
Weather very much today as it was yesterday.
Engaged
the services of the steward to carry up my matress & bed clothes
to give them an airing.
Tuesday, April 14th 1846.
...
-g-
N. Lat. gO. 25.
E. Long. 1110 38
Ther.
The weather during the last 24 hours has been very finecould not have been more agreeable.
Sandwich Island weather.
my.friends there.
It is like some of our best
And I have just now been thinking ot
It is two otclock P. M. and this is the time
when the brethren will have ass~mbled for the Sab. Sch. concert
at the house of Bro. Castle.
there perhaps are Maria Jane
There is Bro: Cook and his scholars,
&.
,Martha Ann and
ot~ers.
Perhaps m:y
communications by the Audax have been rec~ and ·1 may be rem~bered
in the prayers.
Towards evening the wind hauled to the northward, the
chang~
of wind being attended with a shower of rain of not long continuance.
Wednesday, April 15th, 1846.
Lat. 70 28 1
•
Long. E. 110 0 .30.
Ther.
Weather continues to be pleasant, and having a good
breeze in our favor, we consider ourselves as highly prospered.
Our course is S.S.W. and we are steering for
theisland(~uoin
is
a mountain on the island) Great Natuna or Boongooran, but in
making that we must pass North Natunas, which is situated about
30 miles N.W. from Great Natuna.
Sun is now
N. dec. from
US.-
Thursday, April 16th 1$46.
N. Lat. 50 _ 00.
E. Long. lOgO 07 t
Ther.
85 0
Weather continues pleasant with a gentle favoring breeze.
Our course since noon has been nearly South.
The captain judging
his chronometer to be f·arther East than the true time, he caused
a change of course to the eastward and directed the helmsman to
steer Eo. S. E.
Took in studding sails and got up chain to be
-10-
ready to drop anchor should there be necessity for it, as land
may be expected to be made in the night.
.Ii
swallow was seen'
flying aroUnd the ship, which after several times lighting on
different parts of the ship was at length taken; and the little
thing seemed to be Quite exhausted and also to be
th~ty,
as on
being placed in a cage 'with a canary bird, in which there was a
cup with water, it soon began to drink.
Friday, April 17th 1846.
N. Lat. 3 0 56!
E. Long. 1080 30'.
Ther.
84.
Last night at about 11 ofck North Natunas was in sight,
and at sunrise we were up with the northern part of Great Natuna.
AS we were scant for room, t,he vessel was put as near to the wind
as she could go, course varying S.E. by S.to S.S.E. Mieulle reef
lay S .. by compass, distant 12 or 14 miles and at 11 ofclock we'
passed this reef or a small island
lyi1ig,~LofJ1
ibhetN:.
E.;~::,m:f:
G. Na tuna,
being laid down on the chart and named Mieulle Reef: having-cleared this island we were less pinched as the coast trends mare to
the South west.
This isld~ G. Natuna seemB to be well wooded both
in the interior and along shore.
Groves of cocoanuts interspers-
ed with native dwelling were presented to view all along the coast
and smokes from fires of the inhabitants were ascending in several
directions.
Mount Quoin or Bedong was capped
~ith
clouds: ,it
ascends from the shore on the side of the island toward the east
and mounts to its summit presenting a front of forest trees-'or as
they seemed to me: it has an elevation of 6 to 8 thousand feet:
this is mere guess work, as,at 12 ofck its summit is still cov~
with clouds.
Seven mr eight eminences besides Mt. Quoin appear
inland, or rather a chain of hills, as they seemed
to be, connected.
I judge the island to be valuable for cultivation as the thrifty
a~pearance
of the forest indicates a good soil.
The islands in
this neighh~rhood are inhabited by Malays, who are said to be
savage in their disposition and piratical
~n thei~
habits.
We
saw two small vessels at anchor in what appeared a road stead.
The wind di ed away in the afternoon, and be.came variable- with
alternate calms and slight squalls; the clouds also settled over
the land and hid all but the shore from our view; which seemed to'
.
.
pour down rain and by cooling the land sent us an occasional breeze·,
I hope. we shall get so fa.r from the· land before dark as to feel
safe during the night.
We may expect .variable winds & calms.
Saturday, April 18th 1846.
N. Lat. 2
0
E. Long. 1080 33.
05 t
Ther.
87
A gentle breeze continued through the· night during which
we passed West island, and which was in sight thi s morning 28 or
30 miles distant .north east from us, being high land it was very
distinctly seen.
Saw two
~~layan
vessels schooner rigged one was
standing towards Borneo, which lies East from us.
~aw
Haycock one
of the· S. Natunas bearing E. by N. also at noon St. Pierre bearing
E.S.E. distant 25 miles.
Western Island, Haycock & S. Pierre are·
all high land and can be seen 25 to 35 miles.
Sabbath, April 19th 1846.
N. Lat. O. 57'
E. Long. 1080
.
29
Ther. 85,
Land seen to day in order as follows:
lUmbelan Islands- high land
Borneo-
~fuuntain
~f
one seen.
. ,..
Tanjong Moora.
L
Booring Islands- these close to the lsland of Borneo ,...
three eminencies visible all the latter part of
the day.
<-
.
':.,
-12-
Dir'ection island close on our starboard bow made just
dark.
Saw two small vessels on a wind steering to the Westward, they seemed for a time to be directing their course to
but they could not keep up.-
A very
~uiet
~;
day, going at the rate
of 3 miles an hour; very, Ii ttle motion.
Monday, April 20, 1846.
S. Lat.' O. 14 t
E.Long. 16So Gill t
Ther.
Passed 'Direction island'a t about ~b t ck .A. M. at noon it
is seen astern of us distant 30 miles.
The weather continues very
moderate, the breeze gentle but favorable carrying us with all
sail spread that will in any way take the wind at the rate of 3
miles an hour over a sea almost without a wave -
We ,have been
sailing at this rate and manner for the last three days.
Rave had
an opportunity of seeing snakes of which I had previously heard: I
saw two of very moderate length, having the appearance of the common striped snake or brown snake seen on land.
I do not
~now
that
they have the temper or disposi'tion of snakes, nor know that they
resemble that species of reptile any farther than elongation of
shape is concerned.
The atmosphere has become more obscure and has a hazy
appearance; this was the fact during the early part of the day
'and about noon: but the general state of the atmosphere for some
days past has been the reverse of dense or hazy, though the sky
has not been entirely free fram clouds.
The following remarks
o~
another (Mr. Lay known by some of us at the islands) who visited
this region in 183'7 agree with my observation: or as far as my
observation goes it conduces to their confirmation:
a~ong
the
-13-
natural appearances near the equator we notice the fixidity, and
the varied configurations of the clouds in fine weather.
We see
them moulded into every diversity of form and of a texture so
dense that they seem as if they were destined to be permanent decorations of the evening sky.
Connected with this circumstance is
a superior brilliancy of colo.ring blue, red and umber color in all
their life and freshness."
Tuesday, April
2Is~.
1845.
S. Lat.l~ 44t
E. Long.lO?o 29 t
Ther.
86.
The captain says we have had a current setting us to the
eastward, tho. our progress has been better than under such a
Circumstance could nave been exPected.
other SUbstances have been seen upon
th~
Floating vegetable and'
water.
ered and the mate picked up some of the pieces.
A canoe was lowThe pieces secur-
ed however were not a vegetable production: they are parts of the
scuttle fish- white and oval form or rather tongue shape, thin
toward. the edges- the substance looks a little like coral.& yet.
is of a nature to float.
'Wednesday, April 22nd. 1846.
3. Lat. 2 0 OSt.
E. Long. 107 0 2S!.
Having anchored last
n~ght
Ther.
at about 5 o!clock, on account
-t.he-
of the current running strong
to~eastward
and setting us towards
the island 01Billiton, we remained until 12 otck at night, when
the anchor was taken up, and with a slight breeze proceeded ·on
our course.
At about 9 h 50 m, the breeze having 2ft us we drop-
ped anchor again, and remained till about 11 h. 50 m, when a light
breeze springing up from the eastward, we got under way again.
Gaspar Island in sight 27 miles distant bearing 'about S. W.. by
.~-
.....
------.--.~--
~
-14-
A ship seen yesterday continues in sight some 5 or 6
com})ass.
miles a stern of us,
1:..
gentle breeze s:r;rung up which continued
thr.pugh the remainder
o~
the day and evening.
For the two last days I have raised a little blood. -The
cause of it may have been my speaking in a tone rather more-elevated than usual; as soon after using my voice in this manner I
observed my expectoration to be discolored.
Having felt pain in
my side I applied a blister in the $vening, which drew very well,
and I hope will prove beneficial.
Thursday, April 23, 1846.
Ther. 86 0
Straits of Gaspar
We passed Gaspar island in the night, and in the .morning
we ·were.in the Strts. having a very light wind our progress was.
In sight Pula Leat on the east also North &. -South
very slow.
islands - On the W. Pula lepa and the island of Banca. Tanjong
Brekat a conspicuQus mountain on Banca was distinctly seen. Entrance
point is the S.W. point of Pula Lepa.
Discovery Rock lies in this passage: it is a rock about 4 feet
impedement to
under water and of course is a dangerous obstruction in the navigation.
Friday, April 24 1846.
s. Lat.3~
A
47t.
ve~J
E. Long. 106 0 43 1
light breeze from the northward.
barks and a Ghinese J"unkDutch.
Ther.
In sight two
.One of the Barks is English the other
We went so near the former t.he Bleng as to speak her.
left Shanghai on the 19th of March.-
Sbe
Saw a large body on the
water which we judged to be a rock; but the Dutch bark went so near
it that we concluded it was something less dangerous in its nature
-15-'
than a rock.
It was probably a collection of trees .& rift sub-
stances.- or of logs, sea weed branches and vegetable substances
from the islands.
We saw at a distance from it what we took to be
a cocoanut tree with its branches floating.
We anchored this' morning, but a slight breeze springing
up we did not remain stationary mDre than an hour.
Saturday
April 25th 1846
0
S. Lat. 4 0 36! • E • Long. 106 . 441
Ther.
Our progress is very slow> as the record of our position
at noon fully shows: and yet we keep steadily movin5 forward.
A
current i9 setting us to the·eastward and·to keep from drifting
out of our course, we have steered two points farther to the west
than we otherwise should.
The English Bark is still in sight
some four miles a stern of us.
This is the
birt~ay
birth- but as ,we are in East
islands r .in time. -
of Maria Jane i.e. the date of her
Long~
we are one day advance of the
The difference in longitude makes their time
6 h. 22 minutes before us, that 'is to say, when it was 6 oclock
here it was 12 ock & 22 min. at the islands.
We are advancing to a situation where we shall have
islands, rocks and shoals in our neighborhood though now 3 otck
P, M. no object of the kind is in sight.
North Watcher is expect-
ed to be the first land in sight; it lies in about 50 12' S. 106 0
32 E. and perhaps it is the only land we shall see till we :wake
the isl~ of Java.
We shall pass,however, the following.
Brouwer's Shoals, 50
eot S.
106 0 15' E.
Two Brothers
5° lot S.
106 0
Jason Rock
5°· 2?' S.
106 0 21t E.
5! E.
-15-
Lynn Shoal
these, the Two Brothers and Brouwers Shoals
Dolphin Rock
are-all within a compass, of which the greatest diameter is not
more than 13 mlles.
About sun set the mate went aloft and reported North
Watcher; but it is so ·far ofr and islands and shoals being in the
neighborhooq., the -captain thinks it will not· be so safe to run
Oy.the bearings of N. Watcher, as to come to anchor in due time
and wait for daylight to shape his course, so as to run clear of
all danger.
Sabbath, April 26th 1846.
S. Lat.
E. Long.
Ther.
87.
The. ship was brought to anchor at 12 ock and at 4 ock
A.M. when the watch was called preparations were made to get under
way.
As soon as it was day light we were again moving - North
Watcher and the Two Brothers in sight our course being to the westward of the former.
The Bark which has been in company has gained somewhat
upon us during the night owing to our having come to anchor.
West Island was in sight during all the last part of the day.
At
evening- ;Java on the East and Sumatra on the West were seen- clouds
resting on the high lands of both of these Noted islands; out
particularly dense and dark on Sumatra.
The setting sun gave to
the clouds a majestic appearance, the base resting upon the land,
of the deepest hue, finely contrasted with the
bl~ushing
and vari-
egated tints of the upper' portmon of them tinged by the setting
sun - the sky above & around or lighter colors, gave a fine effect
to the view.
My thoughts adverted to the dark minded tribes inhab-
-17-
iting these fine islands-
the dark clouds being emblematical of thek
degradation
ignorance and moral and mental darkness - thekightness &. beauty
reflected on the portion above emblematical of the light and blessedness of the Gospel, emanating from the sun of righteousness
·whose healing beams have glanced &. touched on every land, and which
are destined ere long to scatter all the darkness which now rest
upon the nations.
I would add the .prayer that the Saviour would
heni8n
speedily send the Gospel to every dark land, and bless its divine
b€uiBfi rays to the salvation of every· benighted dweller on earth.
Read three chapters in the Saints! Rest and one chap. in the Fountain of Life.
Monday, Apr il 27 l846.
The wind was light during the night and the sea perrect- .
ly smooth and we had made but little progress.
A pJe asant breeze
springing up at an early hour we soon found we were nearing the·
entrance of the Straits, most of the islands in the Straits being
in plain sight1 the most conspicuous are the following:
Stroom Rock, Thwart the Way, Cap.
Button,
Button &. Cap are high rocks
covered with verdure, and after you have passed them seem to stand
in a line and exactly to resemble each other.
On the Sumatra side,
the most conspicuous objects, besides the general aspect 9f the
lan~
were Rajah Bassa a mountain on the main-island and Pulo Bessy and
Pulo Crockatoa isla·nds.
These three objects rear their mads &.
attract tbe eye as you advance.
We had a strong current against
us, and it was nearly dark when we passed the Cap which is only a
few miles North of Anger.
Between 7 &. 8 olck the wind died away
and the anchor was drop:ped pretty near the shore and not far from
the desired anchorage; but it was a place and position which at
-18
some other season of the year would have been one of much danger.
At this period ,however , nothing was to be feared.
I have been much gratified with the scenes of verdure
that have passed before me to-day.
I am thankful that our passage
into the Straits was not on the Sabbath day, as on the last of the
last week that seemed to be the prospect.
I am thankful too that
it occurred on Monday or at least not on the last day of the week;.
for had we arrived on Saturday rather than MDnday we should have
been surrounded with native craft, and there would have been a
strong temptation on the part of the sailors to have made purchases.
The orders of the ship however are tl?-at the Sabbath shall be
observed and that no work shall be attended to except what is necessary to the sailing or safety of the vessel.
By means of the glass I have been able to gaze at the
mountains, hills, eilllnences, slopes, ravines, and indentations
The hills &
that have been presented by these tro?ical islands.
eminences are clothed with a lively verdure to their summits; varyingin hue from the deepest green to that of the palest - trees
and shrubbery interspersed with cultivated plats.
The shores seem-
ed to be lined with trees of different kinds, such as cocoanut
shade trees.
&
I was delighted with Button island covered with trees
and shrubs- commencing at the waters edge and reaching to its roundI
ed top.
shore~·
A beautiful place
thot.~for
an excursion to a party from
·(Just 23 years to day since my arrival at Honolulu in Ship
Thames) .
Tuesday April 28th. 1846.
At Anger S. Lat. 6 0 3 t
•
E. Long. l05~ 54'.
Th.
87 0
The boat was got ready at an early hour and immediately
after breakfast the Captain & his lady and myself took our seats
-19-
and the rowers with vigorous arm pointed our boat to the shore,
which was not very far distant & which was smiling with glistening verdure" -
we did not direct our course to the nearest point
having come to anchor a little below Anger or rather the landing.
In going in we passed the wreck of a very large vessel cast away
in Dec~ 1844 - the Inglis, an English ship of 1400 tons, Cap.
Isaacson an elderly m..an "accompanied with hi s wife".
ed by
t~e
misfortune that he died soon after.
"merit sent his wife in a steamer to Singapore.
He was so affect-
The Dutch GovernAn American vessel
the Surat Cap. Pierce has subsequently been cast away near the
same place.
We did not see the wreck which sunk in deeD
- water , or
rather falling over on one "side after being wrecked, into deeDer
water, she is not conspicuous.
former
Both wrecks have been sold; on the
we saw people at work breaking her up.
Our boat was direct-
ed-into a small creek, on both sides of which was a sort of pier
or frame work of small piles
.&
some cross timbers.
On the right hand at a short distance froll the sea is a
fortress where is a garrison of about 30 soldiers commanded by
the Dutch; to whom belongs the Government.
Near the N.
~d.
corner
of the Fort on the other hand of the creek and on the side towards
the Governorts house we landed.
liere we were met by a native of
the Governor who showed us the way to the Government house which
was not many rods distant- and is a pleasant building surrounded
with a white painted fence of light structure with shade trees and
ornamented walks with shrubs & flowers- very pleasing to the eye.
Some of the flowers were deep crimson and brilliant colors'.
We
were met by the Governor in the verandah in which chairs were
placed and politely invi.ted to sit down.
The Captain having vis-
ited this place before was quite at liome with the Governor in
-20-
topics of conversation.
He showed him his book of arrivals where
the Captain perceived that the Congaree Cap. Doane has passed along
17 days ago.bound for Boston and the Brig Wissahicok, Cap. Webber,
10 days ago, for New York.
The Congaree had brought a number of
passengers from Manilla, two of whom left here to take passage in
a steamer carrying the overland mail.
The situation of the
Go~
is ~very pleasant one-.being open to the currents of air from the
sea the.trees & shrubbery inviting the cooling breeze in which'
direction soeverlt maY.blow.
He showed us his rooillS- and aviary
as we may 'call it, for there was quite a collection of birds.
We
were ·!3.ID.used with the Miner a b·ird about the size of the Paroq,uei,
of a beautiful glossy blue black- an'orange bill, legs of the same
color and a yellow
fringe around the neck of a substance not un-
like the.crest of a cock.
There were two of them oc.cupying cages
who had been taught to imitate the human voice- the laugh was an .
exact imitation and was very amusing: guinea pigs and white
rabbits we saw.
He also showed us what was a great wonder - an
insect somewhat in the form of a leaf- now dead but· once'possessed of life; it was brought by a native in a living state and was
seen to move: though having in certain respects the form and apparent qualities of a leaf, it was evidently an insect of the
butterfly species exhibiting in the leafy-texture the vermicular
form of the body of a hutterfly.- Neither the head·nor the legs
held an exact resemblance to that species of insect.-
We saw also
the bill of a large kind of bird, which was o:g a very curious
form- having a yellow horny substance attached to the upper part
of the bill - the whole having something the appsarance of this
rude sketch.
~~
It must have belonged to a bird of a large size.
'
,
: . ':
•
r
.'/ ... tI
•
.'
t
-1-
"
'." /: f,
':": . i
,I
'/i'i:
.,
.. i
. 'j~',
Book No. 5-
[Ma'r.30-Apr.28, 1846]
Canton, MOnday March 30,1846.
Received letters this morning from the Sandwich Islands.
~he last date was Feby 16.
The package came from Hong Kong having
been brought to 'China by the Schooner Mary belollging to Skinner
& Co. and commanded by Mr. Sewerscroop, or at least the letters
came by his hand.
In receiving these co:mrnunications just at this time I
have another instance of the kind ordering of providence.
Had I
left on Friday, as was contemplated, or any time before to day, I
should have failed to receive,' the intelligence, which I now have,
from home, and failed of course of communicating the fact to my
wife. '
All my arrangements
be~ng
completed and being inSormed
that I must be on board of the Lucas this evening, it was thought
best I should not wait for the Captain who would not get
away till
evening; so a passage boat was employed and my baggage sent on
board.
.Ii t
about 3
0 1
ck I took leave 'of my kind friends at the
house of Dr. Bridgman and accompanied by himself I proceeded to
the boat, and there bidding adieu to my kind fr&end, I took my
seat.
The passage down was rather long, being a'oout 3 hours
half', the distance being only ? or 8 miles.
a
&.
'I easily found the
vessel and was received on board with due attention y and
short~y
took to my berth feeling much exhausted by the days excitement and
labors.
The Captain arrived at about 9 otck in the evening.
I
should have noticed that the Captain's lady was on board, who very
k1n~ly
received me and gave directions to the .steward t a make up
my bed in my
stateroo~~
and provide a sufficient quantity of out0
-2.-
side covering, of which I had not a supply.
At Whampoa.
Tuesday, March 31st 1846.
Early in the morning I heard movements of getting under
. way.
The machinery connected with the windlass for taking up the
anchor was in operation under the willing hands of :part of the
crew- while another portion were
en~ed
connected with getting ready to sail.
in executing' other orders
Pretty soon
al~;
sailing
movements were stopped,the anchor was allowed to go bac!: again
and a"great scope of chain was let out- a
s~uall
had sprung up
and blew furiously for awhile, which "seemed for a few moments to
endanger her running afoul of another vessel lying near.
sQuall was of
shor~
The
contiuuallce, and it was not long before move-
ments were again made of getting under way, and we were soon in
a moving state) the vessel being surrounded with Chinese hoats,
whose owners had been along side
waiting to close up their con-
cerns with the Captain, the comprodore, not least important had
his claims to be attended to- and as the vessel moved very slowly
and had several times in
conse~uence
of tide, wind or current, to
come to anchor, there was abundance of·tine to make settlements
with all those who had any
deman~s.
I should here notice that I raised some blood this
morning.
I know of no reason for it except the unusual exc.ite-
ment and exertions of·yesterday.
In getting
everJ'~hing ready to
go there was necessarily required an effort, and then in the
",
.
midst of this, to receive letters from my family, which, as I should
not have another opportunity to acknowledge, I was desirous to
notice in my Glosing communication to my w.ife, to be left and sent
-3-
to the islands by the first opportunity- probably by the Mary to
return
somet~e
hence,-
all these things affected me and produc-
ed a heavy pulsation, and is the only assignable cause of
blood.
ra~sing
I continued in my ~tateroom during the day, and had
arrow-root supplied by myself & made by the steward brought to me
fo r my food.
A dead light opening into the side of my stateroom immediately over my berth, was lifted and through this aperture I-was
able to look out and see something of the shore and what was lying
tin the wa tel.' or passing by us as we slowly moved down the river.
The Captain enquired after my health several times and
instructed me to call upon the steward toprovi<ie for me anything
I might need for my com.:fort.
Wednes-day April 1st 1846.
l:l.aving come to anchor last night near the Bogue, the
fir-st thing this morning that was heard was that of the work of
getting under way; which was soon accomplished, and we were again
moving down the river with a very light breeze.
ning and rain -at intervals during the day.
Had thunder, light-
Towards evening a
smart breeze sprung up, but it was not exactly in our favor, and
the pilot was discharged giving the proper course to steer in
order to run clear of the islands in sight.
The Captain paid him
his fee & made a present of some beef and bread.I have not raised any more blood, and being unwilling
to confine myself to my stateroom longer than
my
seat at the table for dinner.
i~
too~
I proposed a blessing at meals
to which the Captain very readily gave consent.
C~i~
the proposition I would
necessary, I
attribu~e,\
His readiness to
to the good pleastlr.e
0
f God}
and here record my thanks to the giver of all good for his mercies.
-4-
It is a great comfort to me to be able aJ'every meal to address
,
tSleJ
God in an auuable1\ manner.
May my conduct in all respects be con-
si~tent.
With the assistance of the steward I had my trunks placed in my stateroom so as to be easily got at and opened.
Thursday April 2nd. 1846.
The wind' during the night was light and not much in our
favor and we of course made but little progress, though we have
gained a safe offing.
Had some pretty heavy thunder this
~ning,
the sound' of which rolling in majesty over the waters reminded me
of the description pf the phenomenon as c'ontained in the 29th
Psalm which I read.
I
am more comfortable than I have been since my embark-
ation.
The Grand Ladrone was seen in the distance.
t have read again the letters of my de,ar Wife which came "
to hand on the' day of my leaving Canton.
I was permitted to receive them.
I
feel very
th~nkful
that
I must be long separated from
my dear family but I pray they may be'kept from all evil and preserved in life and that I may experience the wish of the apostle
in the behalf of himself and his associates contained in the. following expressions:
Now God himself and our Father and our Lord
Jesus Christ direct our way unto you. 1 Thes. 3;11
So may I be
directed back to my friends at the Sandwich Islands.
This day the Captain Calls the day of his departure,
and counts from this.
FridaY,April 'zrd. 1846.
The morning sun with pleasant rays is now shining
through the dead light into my stateroom; the wind blows moderate-
ly and the sea is smooth: canary birds are singing merrily in
their cages hung up in the cabin.
The sight and sound are agree-
able and cheering to the spirits after a long period of gloomy
weather - cold and rain experienced while shut up in Canton. Read
Ps. 30: 2 & 3. and prayed the Lord that if consistent with his will
the· sentiment might be fulfilled in my experience : "0 Lord, God I
cried unto thee and thou hast healed me.
0 Lord, tho.u has brought
up my soul from the grave: and thou hast kept me alive that I
should not go down to the pit."
The Lo:r-d knows how much I desire
to be restored to my family again, and I doubt not the willingness of God to grant my desires, and that they will be granted if
it shall be for his glory;
Lat. 21
0
Nor cam I desire it otherwise.
14'. Long. 1l3° 46.
Ther. ?7°
The Great Ladrone is in Lat. 21 0 57t.
I find the temperature
time since I came to Canton.
~uite
agreeable more so than any
A pleasant day and moon & stars
visible at night.
Saturday, April 4th 1846.
Lat. 20 0 48 1
Long. 1140 021.
•
Another pleasant day though the atmosphere continues to
be somewhat thick though not so much so as to shut out the rays
of the sun.
A light Southerly breeze, which being ahead causes
our progress to be slow.
Y~sterday
saw pumace stone floating upon the water: the
Captain scooped up a piece and preserved it.
It is like that
which was picked up in the Pacific when I came down in the Congaree.
Sabbath, April 5th 1846.
This has been to me a Quiet and pleasant Sabbath as
regards my mind.
The time has been employed in reading "and con-
-6-
tem~lation
profit.
and attempts to pray.
I hope not altogether without
Still I have to lament my
s~iritual
barrenness and that
my-soul is not fruitful and vigorous as a watered garden.
Rave
read two chapters in the "Fountain of Life," and two also in Baxterts ~Saints Rest".
These works are rich in religious sentiment
I have had so,mething of a .. diarrhoea ever since I came on
board, which is attended with pain and flatulency.
p~ragoric
I have taken
and peppermint several times and I have also taken
"cordial1T prepared for this kihd of complaint, which the Captain
was kind enough to furnish me; but I do not yet obtain relief,
.t bough I hope the complaint will no t be come obs tina te:
Perhaps
it may be the effects of the sea, and may have taken the place of
sea-sickness, with which, in its ordinary way, I. have not been
affected.
All has been still on board the vessel, nothing in the
form of work has been going.
The sailors appeared in clean gar-
ments, and they are released from every duty except that necessary
to sailing.
Monday, April 6th 1846.
The weather continues to be moderate, with the wind from
the southward as usual and of course against a head wind our progress has been slow.
Lat. N. 19° 35 f
•
E. Long. l15°. 25 t
Ther.
81.
I am getting better of my diarrhoea.
Tuesday April 7 1846.
N. Lat. 18
0
47t
E. Long. 1130 52.
The weather is pleasant and the breeze brisk; but being
ahead, our progress is slow having for the last 24 hours been only
-7-
48 miles - that i3- so many miles on our
co~rse,
tho. we have sail-
oed more than three times that distance in the form of beating.
Wednesday, April 8th 1846.
Lat. N. 18~ 03:
E. Long 112°. Ogl.
Ther.
Fine weather, fresh southerly breezefor a more favorable wind.
80°
Captain anxious
I would desire to feel that it is of
the Lord that made the wind that-we are delayed.
We shall doubt-
less experience many such delays during the voyage, and I would
therefore pray-to be prepared for them and to beheld submissive
under them;
Why should anyone be dissatisfied with what is of
the LordTs appointment.
Our advance to the South 44 rri.iles- ·r desire to be thankful that my diarrhoea is removed.
Thursday April 9 1846.
N. Lat. 17°.13' Long. E. 113°, 54!. Ther. 81°'
Vifeather direction of wind and progress very much as
yesterdaT.- say 53 miles southing.
Nothing to note except tnat a shark was seen beneath the
waves- flying-fish skimming occasionally above them & birds flying
over in pursuit.
p~sued
These poor things have no restor safety - While
by fish under the surface, and by birds of
a
pr~y
seize them above, they have a narrow chance of escape.times the Saint seems to be pursued.
How can he
esc~pe
ready to
So somebut by
flying to Jesus.Friday, April lOth 1846.
N. Lat. 16
0
50 t
,
E. Long. 114° 05 T •
Ther.
83 0
Pleasant in every respect except in that of advance as
during the last 24 hours we have only gained 23 miles - The Caphad
tain thinks that we have a current setting to the north which has
I'-
-~
retarded us at least 50 miles.
A ship in sight to the leeward of us.
The latter part of this day the wind has been a little
mDre favorable, though 3 points at least from the right direction.
Evenings very pleasant; moon near the full.Saturday April 11th 1846.
Lat. 15 0 29.
E. Long. 1l5°. 44 1
•
Ther. 83
o
Have advanced to the southward 84 miles; but are at least
a degree to the west 'of the course which with a fair wind we should
pursue.
More sail has been added to the ship that every possible
advantage may be gained by the mer e favorable direction of the
wind, tho. it is now three points adverse.
The
s~ip
which have in
sight yesterday continues in sight having gained a little upon the
wind.
Sometime about 9 otck this evening we were passed by
a bark bound up the China sea. Did not speak.,
- This incident
occurred under the following date Sabbath.
Sabbath, April 12th 1846.
N. Lat. 15 0 34t.
E. Long. 112 0 55
Ther.
84.
A veLY pleasant and qUiet day and making pretty good
progress.
I have enjoyed satisfaetion in reading the ttFountain
of Life tt and rtMute Christian T1 •
I earnestly desire the blessing of
God on these privileges.
Monday April. 15th. 1846.
N. Lat. 11
0
42.
E. Long. 112 0
Ther.
84.
Weather very much today as it was yesterday.
Engaged
the services of the steward to carry up my matress & bed clothes
to give them an airing.
Tuesday, April 14th 1846.
...
-g-
N. Lat. gO. 25.
E. Long. 1110 38
Ther.
The weather during the last 24 hours has been very finecould not have been more agreeable.
Sandwich Island weather.
my.friends there.
It is like some of our best
And I have just now been thinking ot
It is two otclock P. M. and this is the time
when the brethren will have ass~mbled for the Sab. Sch. concert
at the house of Bro. Castle.
there perhaps are Maria Jane
There is Bro: Cook and his scholars,
&.
,Martha Ann and
ot~ers.
Perhaps m:y
communications by the Audax have been rec~ and ·1 may be rem~bered
in the prayers.
Towards evening the wind hauled to the northward, the
chang~
of wind being attended with a shower of rain of not long continuance.
Wednesday, April 15th, 1846.
Lat. 70 28 1
•
Long. E. 110 0 .30.
Ther.
Weather continues to be pleasant, and having a good
breeze in our favor, we consider ourselves as highly prospered.
Our course is S.S.W. and we are steering for
theisland(~uoin
is
a mountain on the island) Great Natuna or Boongooran, but in
making that we must pass North Natunas, which is situated about
30 miles N.W. from Great Natuna.
Sun is now
N. dec. from
US.-
Thursday, April 16th 1$46.
N. Lat. 50 _ 00.
E. Long. lOgO 07 t
Ther.
85 0
Weather continues pleasant with a gentle favoring breeze.
Our course since noon has been nearly South.
The captain judging
his chronometer to be f·arther East than the true time, he caused
a change of course to the eastward and directed the helmsman to
steer Eo. S. E.
Took in studding sails and got up chain to be
-10-
ready to drop anchor should there be necessity for it, as land
may be expected to be made in the night.
.Ii
swallow was seen'
flying aroUnd the ship, which after several times lighting on
different parts of the ship was at length taken; and the little
thing seemed to be Quite exhausted and also to be
th~ty,
as on
being placed in a cage 'with a canary bird, in which there was a
cup with water, it soon began to drink.
Friday, April 17th 1846.
N. Lat. 3 0 56!
E. Long. 1080 30'.
Ther.
84.
Last night at about 11 ofck North Natunas was in sight,
and at sunrise we were up with the northern part of Great Natuna.
AS we were scant for room, t,he vessel was put as near to the wind
as she could go, course varying S.E. by S.to S.S.E. Mieulle reef
lay S .. by compass, distant 12 or 14 miles and at 11 ofclock we'
passed this reef or a small island
lyi1ig,~LofJ1
ibhetN:.
E.;~::,m:f:
G. Na tuna,
being laid down on the chart and named Mieulle Reef: having-cleared this island we were less pinched as the coast trends mare to
the South west.
This isld~ G. Natuna seemB to be well wooded both
in the interior and along shore.
Groves of cocoanuts interspers-
ed with native dwelling were presented to view all along the coast
and smokes from fires of the inhabitants were ascending in several
directions.
Mount Quoin or Bedong was capped
~ith
clouds: ,it
ascends from the shore on the side of the island toward the east
and mounts to its summit presenting a front of forest trees-'or as
they seemed to me: it has an elevation of 6 to 8 thousand feet:
this is mere guess work, as,at 12 ofck its summit is still cov~
with clouds.
Seven mr eight eminences besides Mt. Quoin appear
inland, or rather a chain of hills, as they seemed
to be, connected.
I judge the island to be valuable for cultivation as the thrifty
a~pearance
of the forest indicates a good soil.
The islands in
this neighh~rhood are inhabited by Malays, who are said to be
savage in their disposition and piratical
~n thei~
habits.
We
saw two small vessels at anchor in what appeared a road stead.
The wind di ed away in the afternoon, and be.came variable- with
alternate calms and slight squalls; the clouds also settled over
the land and hid all but the shore from our view; which seemed to'
.
.
pour down rain and by cooling the land sent us an occasional breeze·,
I hope. we shall get so fa.r from the· land before dark as to feel
safe during the night.
We may expect .variable winds & calms.
Saturday, April 18th 1846.
N. Lat. 2
0
E. Long. 1080 33.
05 t
Ther.
87
A gentle breeze continued through the· night during which
we passed West island, and which was in sight thi s morning 28 or
30 miles distant .north east from us, being high land it was very
distinctly seen.
Saw two
~~layan
vessels schooner rigged one was
standing towards Borneo, which lies East from us.
~aw
Haycock one
of the· S. Natunas bearing E. by N. also at noon St. Pierre bearing
E.S.E. distant 25 miles.
Western Island, Haycock & S. Pierre are·
all high land and can be seen 25 to 35 miles.
Sabbath, April 19th 1846.
N. Lat. O. 57'
E. Long. 1080
.
29
Ther. 85,
Land seen to day in order as follows:
lUmbelan Islands- high land
Borneo-
~fuuntain
~f
one seen.
. ,..
Tanjong Moora.
L
Booring Islands- these close to the lsland of Borneo ,...
three eminencies visible all the latter part of
the day.
<-
.
':.,
-12-
Dir'ection island close on our starboard bow made just
dark.
Saw two small vessels on a wind steering to the Westward, they seemed for a time to be directing their course to
but they could not keep up.-
A very
~uiet
~;
day, going at the rate
of 3 miles an hour; very, Ii ttle motion.
Monday, April 20, 1846.
S. Lat.' O. 14 t
E.Long. 16So Gill t
Ther.
Passed 'Direction island'a t about ~b t ck .A. M. at noon it
is seen astern of us distant 30 miles.
The weather continues very
moderate, the breeze gentle but favorable carrying us with all
sail spread that will in any way take the wind at the rate of 3
miles an hour over a sea almost without a wave -
We ,have been
sailing at this rate and manner for the last three days.
Rave had
an opportunity of seeing snakes of which I had previously heard: I
saw two of very moderate length, having the appearance of the common striped snake or brown snake seen on land.
I do not
~now
that
they have the temper or disposi'tion of snakes, nor know that they
resemble that species of reptile any farther than elongation of
shape is concerned.
The atmosphere has become more obscure and has a hazy
appearance; this was the fact during the early part of the day
'and about noon: but the general state of the atmosphere for some
days past has been the reverse of dense or hazy, though the sky
has not been entirely free fram clouds.
The following remarks
o~
another (Mr. Lay known by some of us at the islands) who visited
this region in 183'7 agree with my observation: or as far as my
observation goes it conduces to their confirmation:
a~ong
the
-13-
natural appearances near the equator we notice the fixidity, and
the varied configurations of the clouds in fine weather.
We see
them moulded into every diversity of form and of a texture so
dense that they seem as if they were destined to be permanent decorations of the evening sky.
Connected with this circumstance is
a superior brilliancy of colo.ring blue, red and umber color in all
their life and freshness."
Tuesday, April
2Is~.
1845.
S. Lat.l~ 44t
E. Long.lO?o 29 t
Ther.
86.
The captain says we have had a current setting us to the
eastward, tho. our progress has been better than under such a
Circumstance could nave been exPected.
other SUbstances have been seen upon
th~
Floating vegetable and'
water.
ered and the mate picked up some of the pieces.
A canoe was lowThe pieces secur-
ed however were not a vegetable production: they are parts of the
scuttle fish- white and oval form or rather tongue shape, thin
toward. the edges- the substance looks a little like coral.& yet.
is of a nature to float.
'Wednesday, April 22nd. 1846.
3. Lat. 2 0 OSt.
E. Long. 107 0 2S!.
Having anchored last
n~ght
Ther.
at about 5 o!clock, on account
-t.he-
of the current running strong
to~eastward
and setting us towards
the island 01Billiton, we remained until 12 otck at night, when
the anchor was taken up, and with a slight breeze proceeded ·on
our course.
At about 9 h 50 m, the breeze having 2ft us we drop-
ped anchor again, and remained till about 11 h. 50 m, when a light
breeze springing up from the eastward, we got under way again.
Gaspar Island in sight 27 miles distant bearing 'about S. W.. by
.~-
.....
------.--.~--
~
-14-
A ship seen yesterday continues in sight some 5 or 6
com})ass.
miles a stern of us,
1:..
gentle breeze s:r;rung up which continued
thr.pugh the remainder
o~
the day and evening.
For the two last days I have raised a little blood. -The
cause of it may have been my speaking in a tone rather more-elevated than usual; as soon after using my voice in this manner I
observed my expectoration to be discolored.
Having felt pain in
my side I applied a blister in the $vening, which drew very well,
and I hope will prove beneficial.
Thursday, April 23, 1846.
Ther. 86 0
Straits of Gaspar
We passed Gaspar island in the night, and in the .morning
we ·were.in the Strts. having a very light wind our progress was.
In sight Pula Leat on the east also North &. -South
very slow.
islands - On the W. Pula lepa and the island of Banca. Tanjong
Brekat a conspicuQus mountain on Banca was distinctly seen. Entrance
point is the S.W. point of Pula Lepa.
Discovery Rock lies in this passage: it is a rock about 4 feet
impedement to
under water and of course is a dangerous obstruction in the navigation.
Friday, April 24 1846.
s. Lat.3~
A
47t.
ve~J
E. Long. 106 0 43 1
light breeze from the northward.
barks and a Ghinese J"unkDutch.
Ther.
In sight two
.One of the Barks is English the other
We went so near the former t.he Bleng as to speak her.
left Shanghai on the 19th of March.-
Sbe
Saw a large body on the
water which we judged to be a rock; but the Dutch bark went so near
it that we concluded it was something less dangerous in its nature
-15-'
than a rock.
It was probably a collection of trees .& rift sub-
stances.- or of logs, sea weed branches and vegetable substances
from the islands.
We saw at a distance from it what we took to be
a cocoanut tree with its branches floating.
We anchored this' morning, but a slight breeze springing
up we did not remain stationary mDre than an hour.
Saturday
April 25th 1846
0
S. Lat. 4 0 36! • E • Long. 106 . 441
Ther.
Our progress is very slow> as the record of our position
at noon fully shows: and yet we keep steadily movin5 forward.
A
current i9 setting us to the·eastward and·to keep from drifting
out of our course, we have steered two points farther to the west
than we otherwise should.
The English Bark is still in sight
some four miles a stern of us.
This is the
birt~ay
birth- but as ,we are in East
islands r .in time. -
of Maria Jane i.e. the date of her
Long~
we are one day advance of the
The difference in longitude makes their time
6 h. 22 minutes before us, that 'is to say, when it was 6 oclock
here it was 12 ock & 22 min. at the islands.
We are advancing to a situation where we shall have
islands, rocks and shoals in our neighborhood though now 3 otck
P, M. no object of the kind is in sight.
North Watcher is expect-
ed to be the first land in sight; it lies in about 50 12' S. 106 0
32 E. and perhaps it is the only land we shall see till we :wake
the isl~ of Java.
We shall pass,however, the following.
Brouwer's Shoals, 50
eot S.
106 0 15' E.
Two Brothers
5° lot S.
106 0
Jason Rock
5°· 2?' S.
106 0 21t E.
5! E.
-15-
Lynn Shoal
these, the Two Brothers and Brouwers Shoals
Dolphin Rock
are-all within a compass, of which the greatest diameter is not
more than 13 mlles.
About sun set the mate went aloft and reported North
Watcher; but it is so ·far ofr and islands and shoals being in the
neighborhooq., the -captain thinks it will not· be so safe to run
Oy.the bearings of N. Watcher, as to come to anchor in due time
and wait for daylight to shape his course, so as to run clear of
all danger.
Sabbath, April 26th 1846.
S. Lat.
E. Long.
Ther.
87.
The. ship was brought to anchor at 12 ock and at 4 ock
A.M. when the watch was called preparations were made to get under
way.
As soon as it was day light we were again moving - North
Watcher and the Two Brothers in sight our course being to the westward of the former.
The Bark which has been in company has gained somewhat
upon us during the night owing to our having come to anchor.
West Island was in sight during all the last part of the day.
At
evening- ;Java on the East and Sumatra on the West were seen- clouds
resting on the high lands of both of these Noted islands; out
particularly dense and dark on Sumatra.
The setting sun gave to
the clouds a majestic appearance, the base resting upon the land,
of the deepest hue, finely contrasted with the
bl~ushing
and vari-
egated tints of the upper' portmon of them tinged by the setting
sun - the sky above & around or lighter colors, gave a fine effect
to the view.
My thoughts adverted to the dark minded tribes inhab-
-17-
iting these fine islands-
the dark clouds being emblematical of thek
degradation
ignorance and moral and mental darkness - thekightness &. beauty
reflected on the portion above emblematical of the light and blessedness of the Gospel, emanating from the sun of righteousness
·whose healing beams have glanced &. touched on every land, and which
are destined ere long to scatter all the darkness which now rest
upon the nations.
I would add the .prayer that the Saviour would
heni8n
speedily send the Gospel to every dark land, and bless its divine
b€uiBfi rays to the salvation of every· benighted dweller on earth.
Read three chapters in the Saints! Rest and one chap. in the Fountain of Life.
Monday, Apr il 27 l846.
The wind was light during the night and the sea perrect- .
ly smooth and we had made but little progress.
A pJe asant breeze
springing up at an early hour we soon found we were nearing the·
entrance of the Straits, most of the islands in the Straits being
in plain sight1 the most conspicuous are the following:
Stroom Rock, Thwart the Way, Cap.
Button,
Button &. Cap are high rocks
covered with verdure, and after you have passed them seem to stand
in a line and exactly to resemble each other.
On the Sumatra side,
the most conspicuous objects, besides the general aspect 9f the
lan~
were Rajah Bassa a mountain on the main-island and Pulo Bessy and
Pulo Crockatoa isla·nds.
These three objects rear their mads &.
attract tbe eye as you advance.
We had a strong current against
us, and it was nearly dark when we passed the Cap which is only a
few miles North of Anger.
Between 7 &. 8 olck the wind died away
and the anchor was drop:ped pretty near the shore and not far from
the desired anchorage; but it was a place and position which at
-18
some other season of the year would have been one of much danger.
At this period ,however , nothing was to be feared.
I have been much gratified with the scenes of verdure
that have passed before me to-day.
I am thankful that our passage
into the Straits was not on the Sabbath day, as on the last of the
last week that seemed to be the prospect.
I am thankful too that
it occurred on Monday or at least not on the last day of the week;.
for had we arrived on Saturday rather than MDnday we should have
been surrounded with native craft, and there would have been a
strong temptation on the part of the sailors to have made purchases.
The orders of the ship however are tl?-at the Sabbath shall be
observed and that no work shall be attended to except what is necessary to the sailing or safety of the vessel.
By means of the glass I have been able to gaze at the
mountains, hills, eilllnences, slopes, ravines, and indentations
The hills &
that have been presented by these tro?ical islands.
eminences are clothed with a lively verdure to their summits; varyingin hue from the deepest green to that of the palest - trees
and shrubbery interspersed with cultivated plats.
The shores seem-
ed to be lined with trees of different kinds, such as cocoanut
shade trees.
&
I was delighted with Button island covered with trees
and shrubs- commencing at the waters edge and reaching to its roundI
ed top.
shore~·
A beautiful place
thot.~for
an excursion to a party from
·(Just 23 years to day since my arrival at Honolulu in Ship
Thames) .
Tuesday April 28th. 1846.
At Anger S. Lat. 6 0 3 t
•
E. Long. l05~ 54'.
Th.
87 0
The boat was got ready at an early hour and immediately
after breakfast the Captain & his lady and myself took our seats
-19-
and the rowers with vigorous arm pointed our boat to the shore,
which was not very far distant & which was smiling with glistening verdure" -
we did not direct our course to the nearest point
having come to anchor a little below Anger or rather the landing.
In going in we passed the wreck of a very large vessel cast away
in Dec~ 1844 - the Inglis, an English ship of 1400 tons, Cap.
Isaacson an elderly m..an "accompanied with hi s wife".
ed by
t~e
misfortune that he died soon after.
"merit sent his wife in a steamer to Singapore.
He was so affect-
The Dutch GovernAn American vessel
the Surat Cap. Pierce has subsequently been cast away near the
same place.
We did not see the wreck which sunk in deeD
- water , or
rather falling over on one "side after being wrecked, into deeDer
water, she is not conspicuous.
former
Both wrecks have been sold; on the
we saw people at work breaking her up.
Our boat was direct-
ed-into a small creek, on both sides of which was a sort of pier
or frame work of small piles
.&
some cross timbers.
On the right hand at a short distance froll the sea is a
fortress where is a garrison of about 30 soldiers commanded by
the Dutch; to whom belongs the Government.
Near the N.
~d.
corner
of the Fort on the other hand of the creek and on the side towards
the Governorts house we landed.
liere we were met by a native of
the Governor who showed us the way to the Government house which
was not many rods distant- and is a pleasant building surrounded
with a white painted fence of light structure with shade trees and
ornamented walks with shrubs & flowers- very pleasing to the eye.
Some of the flowers were deep crimson and brilliant colors'.
We
were met by the Governor in the verandah in which chairs were
placed and politely invi.ted to sit down.
The Captain having vis-
ited this place before was quite at liome with the Governor in
-20-
topics of conversation.
He showed him his book of arrivals where
the Captain perceived that the Congaree Cap. Doane has passed along
17 days ago.bound for Boston and the Brig Wissahicok, Cap. Webber,
10 days ago, for New York.
The Congaree had brought a number of
passengers from Manilla, two of whom left here to take passage in
a steamer carrying the overland mail.
The situation of the
Go~
is ~very pleasant one-.being open to the currents of air from the
sea the.trees & shrubbery inviting the cooling breeze in which'
direction soeverlt maY.blow.
He showed us his rooillS- and aviary
as we may 'call it, for there was quite a collection of birds.
We
were ·!3.ID.used with the Miner a b·ird about the size of the Paroq,uei,
of a beautiful glossy blue black- an'orange bill, legs of the same
color and a yellow
fringe around the neck of a substance not un-
like the.crest of a cock.
There were two of them oc.cupying cages
who had been taught to imitate the human voice- the laugh was an .
exact imitation and was very amusing: guinea pigs and white
rabbits we saw.
He also showed us what was a great wonder - an
insect somewhat in the form of a leaf- now dead but· once'possessed of life; it was brought by a native in a living state and was
seen to move: though having in certain respects the form and apparent qualities of a leaf, it was evidently an insect of the
butterfly species exhibiting in the leafy-texture the vermicular
form of the body of a hutterfly.- Neither the head·nor the legs
held an exact resemblance to that species of insect.-
We saw also
the bill of a large kind of bird, which was o:g a very curious
form- having a yellow horny substance attached to the upper part
of the bill - the whole having something the appsarance of this
rude sketch.
~~
It must have belonged to a bird of a large size.